Blown Insulation & Air-Sealing
Residential and commercial insulation for existing construction
Rows of siding are removed above and below all windows to allow crews access to wall cavities by drilling through the sheathing under the siding. A tube/hose is then inserted into the cavity, and blow-in insulation is installed. Once installed to the desired density, the crews plug and seal the holes and re-install the siding to original condition.
The most common feedback we hear from customers is about their home’s ability to maintain temperature for a longer period of time. The home is able to hold its heat better, meaning less heat loss, and the furnace is running (firing) less. Some additional benefits: fewer drafts, warmer cabinets, warmer closets, and reduced outdoor/road noise.
I have aluminum siding. Are you able to insulate my walls?
Our crews are thoroughly trained to handle all types of siding, including vinyl, wood (clapboards), aluminum, cement board, cedar shakes, board-and-batt, etc. We have not yet encountered any siding that has prevented us from insulating walls effectively.
Do you drill through the siding?
Contrary to some other contractors, we do not drill through your siding to access the wall cavities. Our crews remove the siding in rows to access the wall cavities, and reinstall the siding to original condition afterward.
Does this application run the risk of cracking my walls inside?
As long as we are able to make a thorough inspection inside the home, we are able to effectively insulate your walls without damaging or cracking your walls. Common wall materials, such as sheetrock/drywall and lathe/plaster, provide more than enough strength to withstand the pressure of the new insulation.
While air-sealing is important throughout your home, the best place to start in an existing home is usually the attic area. Prior to insulating any attic, our crews pay close attention to air-sealing, or sealing any penetrations that connect indoor conditioned air with the attic air. This air can travel by way of interior wall framing, as well as wiring or plumbing penetrations. This is the single most overlooked task when insulating an attic area, a task that costs little money, and takes little time to properly do. If your contractor is not recommending this procedure, then they are not cut out for the job! While most attic insulation is done with blow-in insulation, there is no way to properly air-seal by just blowing in loose-fill insulation. You must first study every inch of the attic plane, searching for potential air leaks. Once the air leaks are found, they are sealed with polyurethane foam or caulk. Once the attic is properly air-sealed and ventilation is properly maintained, the blow-in insulation can be correctly installed.
Before & After
In the pictures below, you will see that some “contractor” had insulated this attic in the past with cellulose insulation. There were many bypasses/airways that allowed warm heated air up into the attic. These bypasses acted like chimneys, with nothing to prevent the airflow from circulating up to the attic area. While the cellulose was beneficial to the house, it can only do so much, and it wasn’t stopping the air from migrating up these chases into the attic. Our crews cleaned out all bypasses, combed over the entire attic floor, and sealed them with one-part spray foam. Once all penetrations were sealed, they added more cellulose insulation, bringing the total R-value up to R-49.